Coffee and Brunch

Like many Australians I'm a little obsessed with coffee and its rich relation, brunch. Enterprising Aussie tourists started bringing high quality espresso bars to Bali by the late 2000s and now there are dozens of options, many using the excellent local robusta and arabica and/or a single origin from the elsewhere in the archipelago.

I have a few small hole-in-the-wall coffee places (which are often the best) on the list and cover good brunch places only if they have decent coffee. Sorry but I don't like my coffee curdled so I haven't covered any vegan-only places. Note that Ubud is vegan central so most cafes will have non-dairy options for coffee and a range of vegan and vegetarian breakfasts.

The triple threat of a fancy machine, quality beans and a great barista is vital here, and I am concentrating on the espresso style coffee (the Australian version; not too bitter, not too sweet, not too hot, not too weak). Many of the good places will have an impressive array of machinery for french press, cold press and various other coffee complexities if you are a true aficionado. Indonesia-style kopi is thick and strong and bitter; the Balinese drink it hot with plenty of sugar, or cold with sweetened condensed milk. It's not my style, but I recommend trying it for a caffeine hit. For my comments on Luwak coffee please see the related post at the end of this one.

My faves:

Best hole in the wall: Traveller and Monkey Cave

Best sandwich: Ubud Sandwich Bar

Best view: Edery Cafe

Best value: Gangga

Best all rounder: Pison

Best sourdough: Reina Jungla

Best focacia: Foci

Ubud Coffee Roastery. This tiny little spot is right in town on Jalan Gautama (the south end). The smell hits you as soon as you walk in and the barista is fantastic. If you arrive close to opening you might get the fresh croissants just as they are delivered still hot. Opens at 9am.

nb. a newer, larger UCR has opened on south the corner of Jl. Goutama, but the small place is still open.

Monkey Cave Espresso. A cute little hole-in-the-wall on the bottom stretch of Jalan Monkey Forest, with fun, knowledgeable baristas.

They have a little seating area above the store, and are now doing sandwiches and burgers.

Old Friends. In the posh expat suburb of Nyuh Kuning, south through the monkey forest, are a handful of great cafes. Old Friends is tiny and only has a few food items, but their coffee is made with love. Every Cup.

Traveller. For anyone hanging around the village of Mas, don't miss Traveller. Packed with parents during the school drop off, and with the atheltic types from the club and Padel Bal, these guys are here for a reason. The coffee is simply superior.

Kanpei. In lively Sukma Kesuma street, Kanpei Expresso is a tiny little spot serving their own excellent blend local and Indonesian coffee. There is no food to speak of here, but the street has a number of cute warungs where they are happy for you to bring your takeaway coffee. Try White Yellow Warung, Awake Cafe or Mama's warung.

The Coffee Experts at Seniman

Seniman. A bali coffee lovers pilgrimage, Seniman in central Ubud has a micro-roasters onsite, a brew bar, a shop and classes. They open relatively early (7.30) and can deliver your coffeein a bottle through go-jek.

The pastries and bagels here are good and there are loads of western and local brunch options.

Mushroom. On the busy road entering Ubud from the south, Jalan Pengosekan, are a couple of local baristas who've setup a fun little shop. Its noisy to sit, but fun to watch the world go by, while sipping on their excellent coffee. Their toasties are quite good for a bread hit.

Baked delicious-ness from Casa Luna

Casa Luna. Conveniently located on the main road close to the Palace, Casa Luna is an Ubud institution. A pleasant, open interior with a comprehensive western and Indonesian menu, the cafe is perfect for shopping and wandering breaks.

The coffee can be hit and miss; often excellent but sometimes ordinary depending on who is manning the machine. However the baked goods, freshly made at the concurrently owned Honeymoon Bakery, are excellent. Insider's tip: You can get your sourdough and croissants delivered fresh first thing by Honeymoon. Ask at Casa Luna for the Honeymoon delivery menu or send them a WhatsApp.

Temu. Diagonally opposite Milk and Madu is a more relaxed, less busy, cheaper and more local place with an excellent and innovative menu. The coffee is as lovely as the staff.

Pretty and Popular Pison

Pison. An upmarket restaurant chain from Jakarta, Pison is super popular with local tourists on the weekends. The food menu, breakfast, lunch and dinner, is amazing, and the view out to the mini rice field is pretty. The menu is more expensive than most but still reasonable compared to, say, Sydney or Singapore.

They do my fave upmarket nasi goreng here and an awesome breakfast curry with chicken, poached egg and a croissant.

Ubud Sandwich Bar. An excellent array of good value European-style sandwiches with quality sourdough. If you've been eating local and need some bready goodness, this is your place. The coffee is great too, with expat roasters blend.

Suka Espresso. A hip and popular place with an excellent brunch and lunch menu, Suka is on busy Jalan Pengosekan, heading into town. The coffee is excellent, with a fancy roastery upstairs, and the service is friendly. I'm a little obsessed with their fried chicken sandwich. This place is currently a Russian hangout and hard to get seated - go early!

Yummy coconut snack at Gangga

Gangga. A very local coffee place slightly north of Ubud central on Jalan Andong, Gangga does a very very good coffee in a pleasant cafe. This is a great spot to work if you have your laptop. The menu is small and cheap, and your coffee comes with a yummy coconut snack.

Milk and Madu. An upmarket western-style cafe with an impressive menu. Very central right next to the palace, this popular spot is comfortable and cool and trendy. There are usually a handful of touts outside who you will need to navigate through. Their juice list is very good.

Elephant. This place is vegetarian so you won't be getting bacon with your eggs, but the menu is still great. Try the delicious corn fritters. Their coffee is not the best on this list but the outlook over the Oos river canyon and across to the Campuhan ridge is worth it.

Thaali at Apsara

Apsara - An upmarket Indian restaurant on Jl. Gautema, Apsara does amazing Thaali for breakfast, along with other delicious Indian-inspired offerings like mulberry pancakes. Their coffee is a little bitter for my taste, but the food is amazing.

Home - a new and very attractively appointed cafe in Jl Jatayu. The coffee is expat and excellent and the menu is fun and unusual with an eastern European vibe. The QR code menu is annoying (Covid is over, people) and the request to tip the waitstaff when a service charge is already included is also irritating. But the service is good, as is the food.

BGS. In the expat enclave of Penestanan in north west Ubud you will find this offshoot of the Seminyak cafe. (this place is in the spot where Revive used to be). Its a hole-in-the-wall in front of a surf shop with excellent coffee, loads of vegetarian milk options and plenty of vegan sweet snacks. There is no real menu to speak of for brunch. Map

Edery Cafe. This pretty spot is 15 minutes north of Ubud. The coffee is amazing, the menu is fun and cheap, the mural is gorgeous and the view is spectacular.

Rüsters. High quality coffee in a gorgeous spot - both the modern interior and the rice paddy view. The menu here is extensive and excellent but a bit pricey, and the service is patchy due to the seating arrangement. Sunset drinks at this place is great - get there early for a good seat.

Reina Jungla

Reina Jungla - A very pretty place in North Ubud, Reina has an expert baker making amazing sourdough and other delicious goods. Their menu is small but satisfying, the coffee is great and the view is stunning.

Freak. The menu isn't much here, although there are smoothie bowls if that's your thing, but the coffee is excellent and the vibe is pure Ubud. The owner grows his own organic coffee in Kinatamani. This is a great place to stop if you are shopping on foot in central ubud.

Speaking of Kintamani, there are about a dozen excellent coffee shops sitting on the lip of the volcano crater u there, about 40 minutes north of Ubud. Check out my post on Kintamani Day Trip - linked below.

First half of the amazing brekky at Soulshine

Soulshine. This stunning resort and retreat just south of Ubud Centre has a lovely restaurant and pool bar. The set breakfast is amazing - easily the biggest I've had in Ubud and very high quality. My latte was a bit too milky - which is what happens when you use the wrong sized cup - but otherwise decent.

Foci. North of the statue this tiny spot bakes spectacular foccacia - the best I've had since I was in Italy 2 decades ago. It's soft, crunchy and with the soul of a Sicilian Mama, and the sandwiches are to die for. Apparently the baker is formerly from the Locavore stable. The coffee is excellent.

Bittersweet. Housed in a beautiful store filled with gorgeous things, this cafe/restaurant serves excellent, rich coffee in lovely surrounds. The menu is very good although less than generous, and they could do with another server at brunch time. Nevertheless, it's a great place for a shopping stop, and amazing to browse in the store after your coffee.

Muse Breakfast Dosa

Muse - This Indian-influenced cafe in north Ubud has an amazing breakfast dosa among other delightful brunch options. The coffee is strong but not bitter.

Livingstone. This offshoot of the popular Seminyak eatery arrived in Ubud recently to much acclaim. It's a little on the pricey side, I'm always disappointed when I get one egg in a breakfast egg dish.

However the taste level is superior to your average cafe fare; even the salads are tasty and I'm not a salad person. Also the coffee is as smooth as silk. Go for the large and exciting menu, amazing baked goods and excellent blends.

Mother. Another cafe in upmarket Nyuh Kuning, this is a bit of an earth mother/wellness place, with loads of smoothie bowls and green stuff. However the coffee is good and the breakfast menu is reliable and a decent size.

Lazy Cats. Cute and relaxed place on the western end of Jl Raya Ubud with a good vegetarian menu.

Kopi on Bisma. For those staying in one of the many hotels and guesthouses on Jl Bisma, this place has excellent coffee

Otokafe - A fun motorbike-themed warung with excellent coffee, this is on the intersection of Jl. Monkey Forest and Jl. Hanoman.

Kopi Pengeran - sweet hole in the wall, with a literal hole in the wall, in Penastanen with a excellent, excellent coffee. There isn't much in the way of food apart from super dlicious little cheese patries.

Others

Watercress - A very western style cafe; delicious coffee and food but a little pricier than most of the others. I've had a couple of disappointing experiences here but it remains popular.

Yangi - new in Penestanan

Black Sheep - Decent coffee in both Penestanen and Nyuh Kuning

Dharma - the old place near Bintang is excellent, I love their avocado toast with a kick - but they have now completed finished a snappy new premises up the road a little; perfect for vegetarians and vegans.